What is the difficulty?

There are many different forms of rock climbing. There are short climbing routes, long-distance and dangerous alpine climbing, and only a few steps of bouldering. There is a route to place a fixed fulcrum on its own, and there are also routes Bolts has already hit. Different rock formations in different regions have different rock qualities and different historical backgrounds. It is very difficult to measure them with the same criteria. Therefore, several different difficulty systems have been developed, and some countries have also developed different types of rock climbing. Form, short climbing course, long distance and dangerous alpine climbing, only a few steps of the bouldering. There is a route to place a fixed fulcrum on its own, and there are also routes Bolts has already hit. Different rock formations in different areas have different rock qualities and different historical backgrounds. It is difficult to measure them with the same standard. Therefore, several different difficulty systems have been developed, and some countries have also developed their own difficulty systems. Difficulty is a big issue.

In simple terms, difficulty is a sense of one's own sense of difficulty in climbing a route.

But is it really just a feeling?

According to scientists studying the sensory nerves of the human body, such as the pressure nerves of the skin, or the painful nerves, etc.... The number of nerve cells in each person is inherently different. Therefore, some people are particularly afraid of pain and have different feelings of stress. . So the difficulty is not based solely on the sensory effects of the human body, but a comprehensive comparison of past experiences.

However, scientists have also confirmed that the ability of humans to tolerate stress and pain may not be the same every day, and physical or psychological conditions may reduce these sensory tolerances. So when rock climbers use physical sensations as a reference for measuring difficulty, they are often distorted! Believe that many people have such experience: When one day physical and mental conditions are particularly good, it is very easy to climb the route; the other day to climb the same route may feel very difficult.

The historical development of difficulty

Traditionally, many difficulty systems (such as UIAA, French system, YDS) are mainly to consider the most difficult course of the route as the difficulty of the entire route, multipitch route and sometimes pitchj The difficulty is calculated separately. However, other factors such as fear, difficulty in erecting the fulcrum, length of the route, difficulty of retreating, etc. are all not considered within difficulty. Only the traditional British difficulty system takes other factors into consideration.

The way of climbing is another important factor affecting the difficulty of the route. Most of the difficulty systems are based on Redpoint difficulty. That is, the difficulty of the route is determined by the assumption that the climber is already familiar with the route. In other words, it is the difficulty after the trick. Here, the traditional British difficulty system is the only exception. Only the British system has the difficulty of assessing a route On-Sight (assuming that the climber never climbed this route). Even if you use the same difficulty system, it will still make it harder for some routes to climb up, and some routes will feel relatively simple differences. These subjective and objective factors we will leave to discuss later.

The difficulty of modern sports climbing is determined by the average difficulty of the entire route, because in an artificial rock course, the difficulty of the route can be designed and controlled, unlike the natural rock field, which may have only a short period of difficulty. Therefore, the action of each step of the course of the game is not too extreme and the difficulty is not too high, but it is very difficult to connect the actions of the entire route. In other words: modern sports climbing is based on the success rate of completion of the route to determine the average difficulty of the entire route. The lower the success rate, the higher the difficulty.

In fact, the difficulty of sports climbing has also included other physical and psychological factors, including fear, or quick deduction, etc. Although customarily we still use the past difficulty system to name it, its essence is completely different in spirit! (Note: The French system of difficulty is closer to the form of modern sport climbing)

So a 5.13a traditional route that was originally developed in natural rock places is by no means equal to 5.13a of the course.

Difficulty setting

The difficulty of a route is usually determined by the first climber. The first climber will often use the following factors to determine the difficulty:

One, based on his/her sense of climbing at that time, as the basis for judgment.

Second, compare the past experience of climbing.

Hey, refer to other routes in the area for comparison.

Fourth, refer to the opinions of the masses. In reality, however, some difficult course difficulties are often underestimated (because of crowd pressure).

When the route is climbed, the difficulty may be corrected again. If the difficulty of the route is overestimated, it may be downgraded. Otherwise, if the difficulty of the route is underestimated, it may be escalated. In addition, the larger (corrosion) or smaller (broken) points on the route may also cause the correction of the series.

What you should know about difficulty...

Subjective of rating

We must have a basic understanding of the difficulty, that is: for rock climbers, the difficulty is very subjective. If the correct difficulty of a route is 5.13a, it means that there must be other climbers who think that the route is only 5.12d or 5.13b/c, because everyone's conditions are different. Difficulty is also a kind of feeling (intelligence) that integrates past experience. The feeling is very subjective, and there is no reason why your feeling will be equal to the feeling of others. Therefore, the so-called special beef noodle soup that you have eaten may be really just a little spicy beef noodle. This is not surprising. This situation is especially noticeable in bouldering or short-circuiting, so there is no need to insist on the difficulty of the route because everyone's feelings are really different.

You may not have the same feeling every time you climb the same route. Of course, it is impossible for others to have exactly the same feeling with you. Therefore, the difficulty is not accurate (accurate). It is for reference only!

Some of the reasons for the difficulty of distortion (inaccurate):

First, limited by the climber's past experience

If a climber has not climbed 5.12 routes in the past, even if he climbs better, he will definitely not be able to work out more than 5.12, so their difficulty is often underestimated (conservative). This situation often occurs in some of the more historic rock farms. Some of the country's early-developed rock sites such as Cannon Rock, Liyang, Shoushan, etc., have a low degree of difficulty. (Note: The road difficulty of Liyang and Shoushan has been revised later.)

For example: Shoushan Rock Field has a route called “Nightmare” More than ten years ago, Coach Liang Minghui’s first difficulty was 5.9, because the hardest route at Shoushan Rock was “Landing Fox” [5.10c] (There are other More difficult but it is only a bouldering problem. At that time, the most difficult route in China was only 5.12 (in fact, TopRope). Recently (August 5th and 25th) Ayong came to Kaohsiung to climb a "nightmare" and thought it "a nightmare is a 5.11 route. Maybe Ayong is correct, because the start of the "nightmare" is a problem of bouldering. There are also restrictions on height, for people who are not tall (especially girls).

As a result, some new rock formations are often set at a relatively high degree of difficulty (or rather close to the form of sports climbing), such as Krabi in Thailand.

Second, limited by past climbing skills

If a climber lacks certain climbing skills (such as cracks), he will find it difficult to climb this terrain. Therefore, it is usually very difficult to think that rock formations of others are difficult when climbing in uninhabited rock formations, which is why it is better for rock climbers to travel around.

Because the conditions of the rock wall are not the same, the difficulty of each area may not be the same. For example, the same difficulty of 5.10 climbing in Yosemite may be the same as climbing in Taiwan. completely different.

If rock climbers in a certain area do not have the opportunity to travel to rock climbing around the world, there are no other rock climbers from outside. Then the difficulty of the route in the area is easily distort. In addition, the rock wall morphology, rock quality, and route length in each area may vary greatly, so the same 5.10 route may differ from place to place.

Medicine Bottle

Medicine Bottle,Plastic Tubes With Caps,Plastic Tube Cutter ,Plastic Tube Clamp

Tube Glass Bottles,Mould Perfume Bottles Co., Ltd. , http://www.nbperfumebottles.com