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Original from: Author: Charles Arthur compilation: Liufeng51
I thought that I climbed quite well in the last part of the first paragraph of the line of the Planam Tremadog (E15b) that day. This was the first time I climbed on the E1 line so regularly (though it wasn’t a vanguard) and it showed Very confident.
"You know," said Peter, who is protecting my climbing friend. "You really haven't taken advantage of your feet." It puzzled me: If I climbed this, how could he still say I didn't use my feet?
Most primary climbers, especially male climbers, have poor footwork. Some of them do not even learn footwork at all. To improve, the secret is to watch the master climb. If the lines completed by the masters cannot be stopped by you at all, you will understand that the difference in footwork is really very different.
In fact, the difference between ordinary rock climbers and top rock climbers is footwork, not big arms!
One week before I went to Plane, I saw the rock climber pioneer Tea (E35C) and the top rope climb Scritto's Republic (E76b) at Millstone. I was astonished at the exact footwork of the climber. It seemed that he stepped his toes on the rock wall very casually. He had no good hands and no good feet. However, he stepped steadily on the rocks selected by the rock wall.
It is difficult for beginners to understand the importance of footwork for advancement. But remember when you first changed your shoes from sneakers to rock climbing shoes, all of a sudden, you could slam on your feet before you wear regular shoes and you can't step on it, right?
The masters wear the same climbing shoes with you, but they can do precise and sensitive footwork, just as you wear sports shoes and climbing shoes. Experts are more concerned about the signal transmitted by the foot, where? Is it stable? When you are climbing the 4c, 5c line, do not forget that someone can climb 6c, 7a or 7b, because their feet share most of the weight. Honestly, at the moment those people who are better than you are, they are not Superman, nor are they using different rubbers. Seb Grieve climbs Parthenon Shot (E96c/7a) and is also a Five Ten Velcros - either in the wild or in rock There are people wearing it.
So how do you know where the problem of the footwork is and how can you improve it?
To diagnose a problem is not easy, you can ask your friends to help you observe (two people to find each other, no one suffers.)
A. The point where others can easily step on and you can slip easily;
B. If you always make unusual noises when you step on the rock and move, it means your footwork is not precise enough;
C. You prefer the big feet instead of the nearest points. Even if they are far, you need to stretch your legs or jump to get there. This is a common problem for climbers on artificial rock walls. It should be noted that on natural rock walls, the entire route may be a small foothold.
Since the legs are much stronger than the arms, try to use as much force as possible when you step on them so that most of the body's weight is shared by the legs. Climbing shoes must be tight. If the shoes are too big, you can't pinpoint them accurately. The footwork is naturally bad.
Look down and watch your next foot. It is a common problem for beginners who always stand in the same place in vain to find their hand on the rock wall. They never make any effort to grab points. In fact, keep your hand in a comfortable grip, then look for the next foot, and think about it when you're looking for: Is that the best foot? How can you make it take maximum weight?
Most rock climbers (especially on artificial rock walls) never believe that a slope can step on it, but they can usually (and much better than being hand-handed), and the reason for not being able to step on is because the foot slips off at the foot.
This makes most beginners unbelieving little dots or slopes. They don't put their weight on their feet. In fact, it's easier to slip off. Your climbing shoe's rubber sole can only be better when it's afterburner. Rock spots. Only by mastering the way to top your knees to one side and get used to pressing the center of gravity to the higher leg, you won't feel the danger of stress and friction. When you step on a rub, just focus on the foot.
Point to be precise. As the master shows, the control of the foot will make a big difference. Tim Emmett once described his status as a Solo Dinas Cromlech's Left Wall (E25c) and Right Wall (E56a) line: "I can only see some small rocks, I step on my toes and make sure that I can stop it. "He didn't mention hand points, because hand points are only used to maintain balance." Maximizing your foot and keeping your forearm stiff is the essence of climbing this line, especially when you are on the Solo line. The requirement for a stiff forearm is very high.
Want to quickly improve your footwork, more than climbing conglomerate and limestone downhill, straight and hanging rock is also good. Climbing on the hanging rock requires more precise footwork. Each step of the move requires the arm to save effort and pass quickly before exhaustion.
Practice more time on the slope, because the arm is not easy to harden, so you can focus on your feet. Close your eyes (perhaps practicing better at the indoor rock gym), try to shift your focus, experience balance with your foot bearing, and the effect of footwork on it.
Try to step on the foot when training. When you warm up, you can use the big foot, until the arms and fingers are open, you can add yourself more difficult. If you step on the dots and your arm is exhausted quickly, it's time to close the footnotes and give it more support. Sometimes, if you raise one leg, you can put your weight on the other leg. At other times, you want to rest yourself.
If you want to give middle-level climbers a piece of advice, that is: Rock climbing like a woman. Because their height and shoulder muscles are inferior to those of men, women climb more efficiently and climb higher, especially in difficult crossings and eaves routes. Men think that climbing is only related to muscles, but "thin" women often overcome them. If you can't do it next time, the best way is to watch more women climb and learn.
Well, this at least gives you a pretext to not climb...
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