![<?echo $_SERVER['SERVER_NAME'];?>](/template/twentyseventeen/skin/images/header.jpg)
Spoon:
This is the most specific and practical high altitude medical knowledge I have ever read. I have always felt that this is a very difficult topic. During the translation process, I constantly recalled the symptoms I experienced in the mountains.
If you read these early enough, you will save a lot of pain.
One of the most critical and extremely simple ways to prevent mountain sickness is to “drink plenty of waterâ€! Goal: 4 liters per day! Wow! Drink it! Do not coffee, tea, pure "water"! Drink your body thoroughly!
-------------------------------------------------- ---------------------
High altitude danger
We do not intend to discuss this topic in depth. We are not doctors and there are already many academic materials on mountain diseases.
You should read and study the book Mountaineering (Climber) and even bring it to you during mountaineering. However, we are willing to share some of our own actual experience. Our proposal is to supplement some of the traditional medical knowledge from a climber's point of view.
Adapt to height
There is no need to worry or try hard to adapt in the process of adaptation. Do not climb vertical heights more than 300 to 500 meters a day. This is not too hard. You can easily be tempted to keep going. In practice, this can lead to headaches, insomnia, and even mountain diseases the next morning. Don't just use your legs, but also use your own brain!
During the climb, these signals are of concern:
Normal height adaptation
Some headaches (aspirin can be relieved), irregular breathing at night, faster respiratory frequency during the day, increased urine output, these are normal reactions.
Moderate mountain sickness
Insomnia, reduced urine output, headaches that cannot be alleviated even with aspirin. Stay at your current height for a period of time (1 to 2 days) until you feel better. Before returning to normal, do not continue to climb!
Acutemountainsickness (AMS) acute mountain sickness
Dizziness, vomiting, loss of balance, constant coughing, insomnia. Drop vertical height at least 500 meters, immediately! And seek medical advice (through walkie-talkie) and take some urgent medical measures.
HighAltitude Cerebral (HACE)-andPulmonary (HAPE) Edema alpine brain edema and alpine pulmonary edema
This is very serious! These two diseases are caused by brain cranial or lung filling.
Symptoms of cerebral edema include inability to act, vomiting, hallucinations, extreme drowsiness, and sports ataxia (there is no way to toe the feet and the traffic police tests whether the driver is drunk). If you suspect brain edema, try to take a straight line or accurately point your nose.
Oxygen, Gamow bags, Diamox and Decadron are helpful, but the most important thing is to drop altitude as soon as possible.
The same treatment applies to pulmonary edema (purple lips, heavy breathing, breathing with sometimes loud noise).
Brain edema, pulmonary edema, and acute mountain sickness are all caused by rising urgency and physical exhaustion. They are the immediate result of wrong decisions, including excessive exercise intensity, rising too fast and often neglecting subtle changes in the body, even though those subtle changes are no longer subtle.
Sometimes we have to do our own limits! Blizzards or other emergencies may put us in an environment that no one will like. That is another matter. But if it is because of lack of patience and neglect to cause acute mountain sickness, it is too sad. You may pay the price of your life! Brain edema and pulmonary edema can quickly become fatal!
Finally, never cook or boil water in a sealed tent. During the burning process, you will consume a lot of oxygen inside the tent, which may cause you to suffer from brain edema or pulmonary edema due to lack of oxygen during sleep!
Frostbite and hypothermia
We do not discuss this in detail because there are many professional literature on this subject. Recommend "MedicineforMountaineering" again, you can find it by searching.
Frostbite
Frostbite usually occurs on the extremities, such as the hands and feet, and sometimes the ears and nose can be frostbite. The soft tissue turns white, and you lose the feeling of them, gradually turn black, and eventually fall off and fall off.
After frostbite, soak in cold water and slowly heat to thaw. If the thawing is too fast (directly in the hot water) will cause the blood cells to burst due to the failure of blood circulation and the immediate death of soft tissue hypoxia. In addition to slow thawing, you need to use some antibiotics to prevent possible infections.
It takes about 3 months to determine the final consequences of frostbite. Fortunately, frostbite parts can often fully recover. Never rub the frostbite area! ! !
In the course of climbing, he feels his own feet. From time to time he moves his activities to the top and kicks a kick in the snow to increase blood circulation.
Use the HotTronics heating pad when you reach the top. Do not tie the boots too tightly. Be sure to cover the snow boots with the plastic boots - or preferably Millet's high mountain boots. (Now there is a kind of super snow cover that may put the entire boot in. It works well! The price is around 100 euros.)
If you lose consciousness during the climb, take off your boots and let your partner warm up with your armpits or crotch (What a friend means at this time!)
Ginkgo tablets are said to help expand the capillaries against frostbite. A lot of drinking water is very critical! (Multiple emphasis on the importance of drinking plenty of water!)
Low body temperature
Low body temperature can be fatal in 30 minutes! At low temperatures, winds can quickly reduce body temperature. (Even in the summer, if you fall asleep in a cold bath in your own home's bathtub, it's a dangerous thing to do, because it can also cause a drop in body temperature and you don't know it.) You start to tremble and make muscles Heat is generated to maintain body temperature balance.
If your body temperature drops to 35 degrees Celsius, you will feel dizzy and lose your sense of direction. Then stop shaking. Now, the body only maintains body temperature in vital organs: the heart, brain, and lungs, and closes the blood flow to the limbs.
As the temperature drops to 30 degrees Celsius, your pulse slows and is very weak. Your blood vessels widen. You feel hot, want to take off your clothes, and finally slowly lose consciousness. At 24 degrees Celsius, your heart stops beating. The speed at which your body temperature drops determines how fast you will die, more than 30 minutes!
Severe hypothermia can not be improved by adding clothes, because the clothes themselves do not generate heat. In case of difficult climbing, you need to place the kettle under your armpit, armpit, or stomach.
As a last resort, take off your clothes and dive into your sleeping bag - with another naked partner, warm your patient with his temperature (Hey, put away your dirty ideas!)
Otherwise, keep moving until you reach a safe place. In 1998, a climber died of hypothermia on the North Slope. People only found that his clothes were stacked neatly where they were not far from the top. This is a very typical example. Extremely confusing, incomprehensible brains tried to sort out clues and folded clothes.
When you feel a bit cold, add clothes immediately to prevent hypothermia. Prepare windproof clothes and light down jackets in your backpack when climbing at altitude. Keep your hot water bottle in your down jacket to keep warm when you peak. Do not continue climbing if you have hypothermia symptoms unless you do not select!
Snow blindness
If you don't wear sunglasses at high altitudes, the strong sunlight will burn your cornea to work!
When using oxygen to climb, exhaled humid heaters sometimes leak from your oxygen mask and fog on your glasses, especially during descent.
Your choice will be either to continue or to take off your glasses. You may push your glasses up a bit to allow the hot air to pass through. In this way, sunlight can burn your exposed side.
If the weather is gloomy, you may be tempted to take off your glasses. However, even on a cloudy day, the sun is still very lethal, and you will regret it the next morning. After 8 years of climbing, we finally experienced this experience. At the top of the mountain we took pictures of the mask for only a short while. We didn't think about it at that time. Everyone was so bad the next morning!
If you are still unfortunately suffering from snow blindness, try to wear sunglasses and drop some medicine. Eye ointment can speed up your recovery!
A small panacea
Despite all kinds of injuries that may harm your health or treat you, especially knowledge and good judgment, there is a simple and important discovery, and we are very happy to share it with you!
At high altitudes, it completely determines our own climbing conditions and our health conditions. It's simple but it's very crucial, it's "drinking water!"
Because of lack of oxygen, your body needs more red blood cells! Each red blood cell carries oxygen and is transported to your various organizations. Your spinal cord will soon produce a large amount of new red blood cells.
But the obstacle is that the new red blood cells will make your blood more viscous. If you scratch your fingers, you will see clearly that the blood becomes darker and syrupy.
Sticky blood means that the blood circulation is slow and blood cannot go to the capillaries. In this way, oxygen delivery is slowed down and inefficient.
When your organization cannot get enough warm blood to heat, they will begin to freeze. You may have to suffer from frostbite!
Then, your body's cells begin to collect fluids. Your lungs start to fill and you're dying (HAPE lung edema). The brain is therefore swollen (HACE cerebral edema)
The body gathers water from anywhere, such as your intestines. If your gut doesn't get enough water to dilute your waste, you can't excrete and cause constipation (very small but hard like a rabbit, really hurts!)
As a result, moisture will fill every part of your body, except where it should be - blood! Your muscles can't get oxygen, so you can climb slowly and tired.
All high altitude symptoms are caused by your body losing its moisture balance!
There is a very simple way to keep the blood well and the oxygen-carrying red blood cells can be unimpeded to reach any part of your body system: water!
At high altitudes, you need 4 to 5 liters of water to feel good. It's that simple, drink water, drink water, drink water!
The best way to check your water balance and quote enough water is to check your urine. You have to drink water until the urine is almost transparent!
If your blood circulation slows down, even using oxygen during the climb will not infuse enough oxygen into your body. A well-balanced climber is also better off than a dehydrated but oxygenated climber. Of course, having a good water balance, plus supporting oxygen support is the best and best way.
We can get rid of headaches, acne, edema, fatigue, and all the problems with water alone. Try to drink 1 to 2 liters of water 1 to 2 hours before departure and you will feel completely different!
At the camp, don't just go to bed and spend some time snow drinking 2 litres of water. Drink another 1 litre at night. You will not believe this difference. In the morning, you are ready to go when you get up, rather than suffering from headaches, tiredness and other high altitude problems as you normally would.
In the past two years, we have stayed in C2 for a long time. We did not use oxygen during C3 adaptation, and we were able to quickly reach C4 and peak. At the summit, we stayed for an hour without auxiliary oxygen and then easily returned to C4. At the same time, we also sent out radio signals to perform other complicated technical work. The whole process felt very good! Tina didn't even wear gloves during the whole process from BC to the peak, and then returned to BC,...
This is very different from what happened in our earlier years. At that time we only quoted the "normal" amount of water (2 to 3 liters up), making us constantly struggling and suffering in almost all climbing experiences. . Drink water and be happy! Without drinking water, you will have to fight hard with high altitude!
If you join a commercial mountaineering team, drinking water may be harder than it sounds. The three climbers have two stoves, and maybe one is broken. Not enough gas, if you take turns cooking other people may not be consistent with your point of view, so you can not prepare enough drinking water for themselves or for everyone.
We recommend that you bring a spare burner (such as the very light titanium PrimusAlpineTitanium, 95g, 3000W thermal output, about 150 US dollars. Spoon: domestic Cowin has to sell.) And really want to support or ask your captain to provide Enough gas. You paid enough and they can hire more Sherpas to provide everyone with enough necessities!
Finally, remember that coffee, tea, and chocolate have a diuretic effect, they can only provide 50% of the effective moisture!
Stone Vinyl Flooring,Stone Flooring,Perfect Stone Plastic Floor
PVC Vinyl Flooring Co., Ltd. , http://www.nsvinylflooring.com