Is it OK?--Thinking about installing Hanger on traditional lines

Recently, many Beijing Yanyou friends in Miyunbaihe have once again discovered that some of the traditional climbing routes that have matured have been hit by the Hanger.... Regarding the installation of Hanger on traditional lines, we have different opinions. Let's see Several people within the circle have different views on this.

Zhao Lei (Climbing Coach, National Team of China Mountaineering Association):

For the practice of expanding the nails on the traditional route, the general view may be that such destruction of the original appearance of the rock wall is not desirable. However, I think it is impossible to generalize its assessment, but should consider the specific background conditions.

At present, China's rock climbing is still in its initial stage of development. The number of natural rock wall routes that have been developed is very limited, and a large number of enthusiasts need a large number of routes to practice drills for the purposes of training, accumulation, and improvement. Therefore, there is actually a problem of inadequate supply of routes. Beginners often cannot find adequate, safe, convenient and moderately difficult routes. For example, in the Baihe area, the number of routes does not meet the needs of Beijing's growing rock climbing community.

If some traditional routes are expanded, the use of these routes will increase greatly. They can be used as a pioneer climbing route to climb; and for beginners who want to practice traditional climbing, they also provide backups in terms of safety, so that enthusiasts have more choice in terms of difficulty level; It doesn't interfere with the original route. You can still use purely traditional methods to climb and get what you need.

In the process of development, it is sometimes not necessary to be too rigid in form. Only by making full use of existing resources can more and more enthusiasts grow faster. This will make the rock climbing sport prosperous, attract more people, invest more energy, and develop more and better routes.

Of course, when we can have a lot of room for route selection, we can preserve the original appearance of some traditional routes. At that time, these routes were not only training tools, but also pure and natural scenery.

Chen Hui (leader of folk outdoor extreme sports):

I think that the right and wrong of one thing cannot be generalized and should be considered from many aspects. The occurrence, development and results of any event have certain social factors. Different social backgrounds and different ideas will make the same thing have different results. Regarding the issue of hitting expansion bolts and mounting hanging pieces on traditional lines, it should be dealt with in three aspects.

First, treat it from the perspective of security.

Rock climbing is a dangerous sport, but rock climbing does not equal risk. How to control and avoid danger is a very important issue for the opener. For a traditional route for climbers to climb, if the rock on the line is strong and the rock joints are easy to set up with rock plugs, rock nails, and other equipment, each climber can use his own temporary protection point to ensure his own safety. Therefore, if the texture of the rock is loose or fragmented, or if the rock opening angle is not easy to install rock plugs, rock nails, etc., then the traditional way of climbing is still used. It is often not a good thing to make the climb covered by danger, to make this line a sports climbing line, to improve its safety, and to allow everyone to enjoy different rock styles.

In addition, for the top protection station, in order to facilitate the decline, in order to strengthen the safety of the top rope climbing, it is understandable to set one or two hanging pieces as appropriate.

Second, we should deal with the development and promotion of rock climbing.

At present, most people in China still wear colored glasses to see rock climbing. The understanding of rock climbing is only visual and intuitive, and people's ideas need to be changed. At present, China's climbing groups are mainly young people, and they are weak in terms of financial resources and climbing experience. For expensive mountaineering equipment, most climbers cannot afford it or cannot purchase it fully, and their climbing requirements need support. In order to let the general public understand the rock climbing movement, to rapidly develop the climbing movement, to cultivate the poor climbers, and to provide a transition for those inexperienced climbers, to repair a few, unclassical, and traditionally shorter climbing routes. Sports climbing should not be a bad thing.

Third, we should treat it from the perspective of climbing principles and maintaining the original appearance of the line.

The so-called traditional climbing route is to require climbers to set their own protection points, and when they leave, except for the necessary descent protection points (as far as possible without leaving metal products), the remaining protection points must be dismantled to achieve the purpose of maintaining the original appearance of the line. , so that other climbers face the same difficulty in climbing. In this case, the use of expansion bolts and mounting brackets is absolutely not allowed.

For the traditional route, when setting the difficulty of climbing, the setting of the protection point should be considered. For example, the placement of certain protection points is not reliable, but it can withstand short-range fall; some protection points can only be placed to withstand weight; moreover, there is not a single protection point in the whole route. Trust, there will be serious consequences if you fall. These are the difficulty of climbing. It not only requires physical strength and technology, but also requires experience and a good attitude. Only by being immersed in traditional climbing can you truly appreciate the fun of traditional climbing.

Wu Peng (free wind, open-line enthusiasts, with a wealth of Trad climbing experience):

I do not agree with the installation of Hanger on traditional routes. I think there should be room for traditional climbing. However, for some of the traditional routes that have already hit Hanger, I will not tear it down!

He Chuan (Xiaohe, a fan of Trad's climbing, currently head of Baihe Fund):

When several traditional lines were seen hit by Hanger, the first feeling was that they were uncomfortable. It was like a string of scars on the perfect body. To say Kangs on the Sports line, it was impossible to do so. There was no way to fight without Hanger. Climb, who do not want Solo, had to compromise. For climbers, the Bolt+Hanger, which is placed on the edge of protection, is completely redundant and can not be kicked off. Thad, an American student, said: “In the United States, Bolt and Hanger playing on the traditional climbing line will be taken away by Climber!” That would leave unsightly scars.

If there is Bolt+Hanger on the traditional route, the psychological pressure during climbing may be smaller, but the understanding of the traditional will be worse, the tradition can give people a natural, pure, complete feeling, with excess Bolt, immediately large Discounted, if I were to choose, I would prefer to have some sand and weeds on the line instead of many traces of artificial carvings, at least they are arranged in heaven.

The difference between climbing the tradition and climbing Sports is like the difference between eating a big meal and eating fast food. The former needs to experience and appreciate slowly. The refinement does not require much, the quality is not required, and creativity is the unity of the body and mind. It is a more complete climbing process; in contrast, the latter is more devoured, focusing on quantity and numbers; the Bolt on the traditional route is a contempt for the idea of ​​the climber. The Sports line I have climbed is similar to the traditional line. There are few Sports lines that can be remembered, but many of the traditional lines are still fresh.

Compared to many of these, it is not necessary to say that hitting Hanger on traditional routes has a negligible benefit for beginners. I just hope that everyone can enjoy the traditional way of climbing purely, and hope that the traditional climbing and sports climbing complement each other and live in harmony.

Climber Network Authorized Outdoor Information Network

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